#SustainableFinds – June 2020

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris findings mode durable WS

June news collection about sustainability and related topics

Regularly we publish articles, we have found in our research on the subject of sustainable fashion or related topics, on our social media channels. The articles here on #SustainableFinds are a monthly selection which we recommend to read on the publisher’s website. The content need not necessarily correspond to the mission of Gwand. We want to create consciousness with knowledge, this is what we mean by #GWANDEducation. The GWAND Sustainable Fashion Festival is a non-profit organization. On our blog or on our social media channels (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest) you will find more exciting articles on the topics.

Note: We have not been paid by the publisher or anyone else for sharing these articles.

#SustainableDevelopment – Article from LUXIDERS

How Coronavirus Is Affecting Sustainable Fashion Businesses

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#GWANDCoffeeBreak – Article from GWAND Sustainable Fashion Festival

GWAND Coffee Break with Diane Pernet 

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#SustainableFabrics – Article from eco-stylist.com

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#Sustainability – The life cycle of a t-shirt – Angel Chang

Via Ted Ed’s YouTube

#SDGoals – Article from TextileExchange

Companies Creating Material Change

¨Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#SustainableEducation – Article from edX

Circular Fashion: Design, Science and Value in a Sustainable Clothing Industry

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#PlasticPollution – Article from Remake by Allison Griffin

Our Clothing is a Major Source of Plastic Pollution in Our Oceans: Here’s What to Do About It

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#UpcyclingFashion – Article from CNN Style by Ben WestcottNanlin Fang

Chinese artist Wan Yunfeng is turning trash into high fashion

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#FashionTech – Article from Vogue Business by BY Maghan McDowell

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#FashionFuture – Fashion for Good: Lab Tour with Spinnova

Via Fashion For Good’s YouTube

#SupplyChain – Article from The Daily Star by Mostafiz Uddin

Global suppliers are stronger working together

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#FastFashion – Article from Eco Textile News

Research shifts perspectives on fast fashion

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#CircularEconomy – Article from Vogue Business by BY Rachel Cernansky

Fashion’s most interesting sustainability efforts can also help fight racism

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#SDGoals – Article from uN environment programe

On trend: sustainable fashion in the wake of COVID-19

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#Nylon – Article from Fashionista by 

DOES SHOPPING SECONDHAND ACTUALLY REDUCE OVERALL CLOTHING CONSUMPTION?

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#FashionFootprint – Article from WWD by Natalie Theodosi

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#FashionFuture – Biocouture on Biodegradable Fabric

Via AEG’s YouTube

#WorkersRights – Article from open democracy by Alysha Khambay

Garment workers are facing a humanitarian crisis – but don’t blame COVID-19

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

GWAND Coffee Break with Diane Pernet

GWAND Coffee Break interview series W

GWAND Coffee Break is a short interview series

GWAND Coffee Break is a short interview series dealing with current developments of the creative industry and society in general. We interview global thought leaders in the atmosphere of a quick coffee break at the office; a face or phone call, WhatsApp voice mails or actually in a tête-à-tête over a cup of coffee. Explore the transcribed interview with Diane Pernet below. Interview by Nicole Stein.

GWAND Coffee Break with Diane Pernet
Photographer: Ruven Afanador
  • What is your favorite communication tool these days ? How do you work with your team?

Diane Pernet: Instagram, IGTV and Zoom.

  • How are you spending your days? Books/series/movies (any reco?)

Diane Pernet: I came up with two projects during the lock down period of two months, it is lifted today thing is the virus is still out there so lifting it is totally arbitrary. I am very happy with the films I’m receiving for my #LOCKDOWNHOMEMOVIES and the drawings for the competition for illustrations of the healing monster Amabie.

As far as films, books, I have access to the Criterion Channel with endless films and documentaries separated by genres, decades, countries and directors. Yesterday I watched a Turkish film The Edge of Heaven which was excellent. I enjoyed re-watching the films of Satyajit Ray, Akira Kurosawa and  documentaries. Books like A Little Life by Hanya Yanagihara, not exactly joyful but a powerful book.

  • How did Corona affect sustainability efforts? Do you think these are short-term/long term effects?

Diane Pernet: I certainly hope it is not short term and that people are forced into the reality of how their lifestyle has impacted our planet. Designers are thinking of how they produce and how they put on shows and the waste that has gone into these big productions. Alex de Betak had some thoughts on show production in this article.

Maybe I’m a dreamer but I do not think people want to go back to life as it was before.

  • Do you think Corona contradicts or supports sustainability efforts?

Diane Pernet: Absolutely supports sustainability efforts. Everyone is forced, as mentioned above, to analyse how what they do effects the planet and it goes beyond bringing a cloth bag to the supermarket and not drinking from plastic water bottles. Maybe I’m a dreamer but I do not think people want to go back to life as it was before. The planet is crying, the cries have been heard now from the top down people have to do what ever they can to change the damage that they have already done.

Probably bikes will be an industry that sees an upswing in their earnings. I for one question the lifting of the quarantine when there is no vaccine what has changed? The virus is out there alive and well that has not changed every surface your touch could be infected, the air you breath… Today they lifted the quarantine in Paris a friend told me the metros are crowded so no one is paying any attention to social distancing. Cafés and restaurants are still not open and probably won’t be till mid-July. I for one do not want to commute unless absolutely necessary. Also businesses are seeing that people can work effectively from home. Consumers should look into what they are consuming, and do they really need to consume to have a good life and what in fact is their idea of a good life?

I like the idea that Saint Laurent will be more like Azzedine always was, show when you are ready to show and not be a part of the fashion system.

  • What is your prediction for the future of sustainable fashion and the creative industry in general?

Diane Pernet: Buy better buy less is my prediction for the future. Hopefully the end to fashion pollution and the endless cycle of unnecessary seasons. I like the idea that Saint Laurent will be more like Azzedine always was, show when you are ready to show and not be a part of the fashion system. Collections shown when clothes are in the shops makes more sense. I am of course in favour of fashion films over fashion shows which I think are very last century or make them a public entertainment where they are a spectacle once or twice a year which are open to the public which will pay to go and attend at the same time they can buy the clothes in shops. Stores and shopping malls are suffering, with COVID19 how willing are you to go into a shop and try on clothes that were just on someone else? Online shopping has been growing for years and probably will continue to grow.

  • What do you think about digital events? Chance to cut cost or loss of cultural impact?

Diane Pernet: That is a big question. I think until there is a vaccine people are not going to jump at the idea of being in an enclosed space with a lot of people watching catwalks or movies. The question is how to make the digital experience more interesting than just a bunch of talking heads. Zoom events have filled a gap and great for the more intimate contact maybe too intimate as do we really need to see the inside of people’s homes? I don’t know I’ve been thinking a lot about how to make the experience dynamic because I don’t see groups of people, be it in a cinema or an event space, as something I personally would be anxious to do for the rest of the year, how about you?

About LOCK DOWN HOME MOVIES

JUDITH directed by Ari Seth Cohen LOCK DOWN HOME MOVIE

#LOCK DOWN HOME MOVIES – CANTAUTOMA – REBIRTH by GIANLUCA MATARRESE & DAVIDE GIORGIO

JE VIS JE MEURS directed by Mia Tomlinson/co-directed by Marcus Tomlinson #LOCK DOWN HOME MOVIES

About Diane Pernet

Diane Pernet is a world-renowned fashion critic and video journalist based in Paris. Previously a photographer and fashion designer, she now acts as documentary filmmaker, talent scout and fashion blogger. Pernet was one of the earliest fashion journalists to embrace the power of the internet, first through a column in online editions of Elle and Vogue and later through her own site, A SHADED VIEW ON FASHION which since its inception in 2005 has become a ‘must-read’ in fashion and creative industry circles.

Pernet was recognised in 2008 for being a pioneer in digital media when she was chosen as one of three influential bloggers to take part in a panel celebrating a seminal fashion exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.  As one of the most recognisable faces in fashion, she has also been captured on the other side of the movie camera through cameo appearances in Robert Altman’s film ‘Prêt-à-Porter’, Ben Stiller’s ‘Zoolander 2’ and in Roman Polanski’s ‘The Ninth Gate’.

Pernet launched ASVOFF in 2008.  As the founder of the world’s first film festival dedicated to fashion, style and beauty, she is widely considered to have incubated the ‘fashion film’ from its infancy to the popular genre that it has become today.  “Diane has never ceased to amaze me with her amazing curiosity about things, her ability to synthesize arcane information and make it palatable for everyone else,” says Tim Blanks, editor-at-large for The Business of Fashion.  “So actually, Diane is a conduit between now and what’s to come.”

#SustainableFinds – May 2020

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris findings mode durable WS

May news collection about sustainability and related topics

Regularly we publish articles, we have found in our research on the subject of sustainable fashion or related topics, on our social media channels. The articles here on #SustainableFinds are a monthly selection which we recommend to read on the publisher’s website. The content need not necessarily correspond to the mission of Gwand. We want to create consciousness with knowledge, this is what we mean by #GWANDEducation. The GWAND Sustainable Fashion Festival is a non-profit organization. On our blog or on our social media channels (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest) you will find more exciting articles on the topics.

Note: We have not been paid by the publisher or anyone else for sharing these articles.

#FashionRevolution – Article from Fashion Revolution by Elizabeth Lwanga

Don’t Stop Sewing after the Pandemic

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#SustainableFashion – Article from BRICKS Magazine by Tamsin Blanchard

FASHION SUSTAINABILITY POST-PANDEMIC

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#Awareness – Article from The Guardian by Alec Leach

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#SDGoals – Article from Remake by Audrey Stanton

How the United Nations’ SDGs Relate to the Fashion Industry

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#SustainableDevelopment – Article from The Guardian As told to 

‘Lockdown has been a wakeup call for the industry’: what next for fashion?

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#SustainableFashion – Article from Vogue by

Creating the Future: How Fashion Designers Are Responding to the Crisis

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#FashionTech – Article from WTVOX

Is the Future of Fashion Going to be Blockchain?

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#SustainableFashion – Article from Forbes by Elizabeth L. Cline

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#DigitalFuture – Fashion for Good Webinar

Via Fashion For Good’s YouTube

#Cotton – Article from Apparel Insider by Brett Mathews

Cotton paper released as FREE download

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#Denim – Article from Vogue by Rachel Cernansky

The fight for clean and recyclable denim

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#CircularEconomy – Article from Vogue by

Circular fashion’s timely opportunity

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#FashionHistory- Article from Smithsonian Magazine by Emily Spivack

Stocking Series, Part 1: Wartime Rationing and Nylon Riots

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#Nylon – Article from Good on you App by Ashlee Uren

Material Guide: How Sustainable is Nylon?

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#SustainableFashion – Article from Vogue by

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#Sustainability – Article from London Business School by Alex Falconer

6 ways to set sustainability at your organisation’s core

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#ClimateChange – Article from Fast Company by Evan Nicole Brown

What indigenous design could teach us about surviving climate change

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#SustainableFinds – April 2020

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris findings mode durable WS

April news collection about sustainability and related topics

Regularly we publish articles, we have found in our research on the subject of sustainable fashion or related topics, on our social media channels. The articles here on #SustainableFinds are a monthly selection which we recommend to read on the publisher’s website. The content need not necessarily correspond to the mission of Gwand. We want to create consciousness with knowledge, this is what we mean by #GWANDEducation. The GWAND Sustainable Fashion Festival is a non-profit organization. On our blog or on our social media channels (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest) you will find more exciting articles on the topics.

Seven years ago the factory collapsed in Bangladesh, affecting over 2500 people. This disaster has led to the foundation of Fashion Revolution, that’s why you will find articles in the April issue mainly on the subject of Fashion Revolution.

Note: We have not been paid by the publisher or anyone else for sharing these articles.

 

#FashionRevolutionWeek – Article from Fashion Revolution

The Fashion Transparency Index 2020

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#FastFashion – Article from The Guardian by by

Fast fashion speeding toward environmental disaster, report warns

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#CircularEconomy – Article from Ellen McArthur Foundation

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#PlasticPollution – Article from Rolling Stone by

How Big Oil and Big Soda kept a global environmental calamity a secret for decades

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#SustainableDevelopment – Article from Common Objective

Is Recycled Polyester Green or Greenwashing?

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#SustainableFashion – Article from WWD by Luisa Zargani

Giorgio Armani Writes Open Letter to WWD

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#Sustainability – Article from Forbes by Roddy Clarke

Is COVID-19 The Reset Button We Need Towards A Sustainable Future Of Design?

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#SustainableFashion – Article from Apparel Insider by Mostafiz Uddin

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#WhoMadeMyClothes – Fashion Revolution Stitch & Bitch

Via Fashion Revolution’s YouTube

#FashionRevolutionWeek – Article from 10 Magazine by Tamsin Blanchard

TAMSIN BLANCHARD’S ULTIMATE GUIDE TO THE FASHION OPEN STUDIO EVENTS TAKING PLACE DURING FASHION REVOLUTION WEEK

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#ClimateChange – Article from The Guardian by

Scientists confirm dramatic melting of Greenland ice sheet

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#CircularEconomy – Article from Vogue by Rachel Cernansky

Circular fashion’s timely opportunity

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#FashionTech – Article from Fash Nerd by Muchaneta Kapfunde

Science Introduces Human Textiles That Can Be Knitted, Crocheted or Weaved

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#FashionTech – How technology can recode the unsustainable fashion system – Swim XYZ x Techstyler

Via Fashion Revolution’s YouTube

#SustainableFashion – Article from Forbes by Brooke Roberts-Islam

The True Cost Of Brands Not Paying For Orders During The COVID-19 Crisis

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#WhatIsInMyClothes – Article from Vogue by Alice Cary

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#FashionRevolutionWeek – Article from The Voice of Fashion by Orsola de Castro

Special Dispatch: “It is An Obligation Not an Opportunity”

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#SustainableFashion – Article from Elle by Subhanjana Das

Craft revivalist Kavita Parmar’s IOU Project champions sustainability

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#SustainableFashion – Article from Fashion Roundtable by Bev Malik

“It’s time for a total reset and rethink”: How the pandemic will redefine the future of fashion month

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#SustainableFinds – February 2020

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris findings mode durable WS

February news collection about sustainability and related topics

Regularly we publish articles, we have found in our research on the subject of sustainable fashion or related topics, on our social media channels. The articles here on #SustainableFinds are a monthly selection which we recommend to read on the publisher’s website. The content need not necessarily correspond to the mission of Gwand. We want to create consciousness with knowledge, this is what we mean by #GWANDEducation. The GWAND Sustainable Fashion Festival is a non-profit organization. On our blog or on our social media channels (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest) you will find more exciting articles on the topics.

Note: We have not been paid by the publisher or anyone else for sharing these articles.

#Fibers – An introduction to fibers and their impact on the environment

Found by research on YouTube via WRAP.

Webinar from Made-BY

#FashionRevolution – Article from and by Fashion Revolution

THE GREAT FASHION REVOLUTION CLOTHES SWAP

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#SustainableDevelopment – Article from The Guardian by 

Landmark French law will stop unsold goods being thrown away

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#DeconstructedClothing – Articel from ASVOF by

Institut du Monde Arabe welcomes Renaissance – a way to revolutionize creation, art and clothing

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#Innovations – Article from Fast Company by Ian Fletcher

Climate change is the greatest design problem of our time. Mushrooms to the rescue?

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#SustainableDevelopmentGoals – time lapse to the future | Leen Zevenbergen

Found by research on YouTube via TEDx Talks 

#PlasticPolution – Article from Ecotextile News by Chris Remington

Fashion For Good expands polybag recycling work

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#MicroPlastic – Article from The Guardian by 

Stars urged to ditch the sequins at the Oscars to save the oceans

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#MicroFibers – Article from Ecotextile News by Simon Glover

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#Weaving – Porfirio Gutierrez – Master Weaver from Mexico

Found by research on YouTube via Fashion Revolution

#FashionStandards – Articel from Fashion Network by

La quête de traçabilité redessine la carte du sourcing mondial

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#WhoMadeMyClothes – Article from The Washington Post by Kim Bellware

Seven people died when the only escape from a fire at an Indian denim factory was up a ladder

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#CircularEconomy – Article from Paptic®

First Plastic Bag Free City in Europe – Finnish NGO Providing Households with Reusable Bags for Free

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#UpCycling – Article from The Guardian by Chekii Harling

Would you wear clothes made from rubbish?

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#CradleToCradle – Prof. Dr. Michael Braungart, CEO, EPEA, and co-founder of the Cradle to Cradle

…we think its environmental protection if we destroy less…

#SustainableSolutions – Articel from Vogue by Grace Cook

Cactus Leather, Lab-Made Silk, And Vegan Wool: Inside The Fabric Fair Pioneering Greener Materials

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#WhoMadeMyClothes – Articel from Ecotextile News by Simon Glover

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#SustainableDesign – Articel from South China Morning Post by Peta Tomlinson

Plastic alternative bioplastic, made from vegetable oils, fats, fish scales, farm waste or other renewables, embraced by furniture designers

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#FastFashion – Article from Vox by 

Fast fashion, explained

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#SustainableFinds – January 2020

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris findings mode durable WS

January news collection about sustainability and related topics

Regularly we publish articles, we have found in our research on the subject of sustainable fashion or related topics, on our social media channels. The articles here on #SustainableFinds are a monthly selection which we recommend to read on the publisher’s website. The content need not necessarily correspond to the mission of Gwand. We want to create consciousness with knowledge, this is what we mean by #GWANDEducation. The GWAND Sustainable Fashion Festival is a non-profit organization. On our blog or on our social media channels (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest) you will find more exciting articles on the topics.

Note: We have not been paid by the publisher or anyone else for sharing these articles.

#FashionRevolution – Article from and by Fashion Revolution

2019: A Year in Fashion Revolution

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#WhoMadeMyClothes – Article from Ecotextile News by Chris Remington

Garment workers’ organisation calls for greater protection

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#SustainableFashion – Article from Fashion United UK by Marjorie van Elven

2019 recap: is the fashion industry becoming more sustainable?

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#SustainableFashion – Article from ASVOF text by Silvia Bombardini

Bethany Williams, fall 2020

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#Tailoring – Article from our collaboration partner IFA Paris

The Art of Being a Tailor in Paris

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#MicroPlastic – Article from the Guardian by Stephen Buranyi

What scientists can see and measure, in landfills and on beaches, is only a small fraction of the total plastic entering the water.

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#Recycling – William Amor: an artist who makes garbage bloom!

Found by research on YouTube via POSITIVOM‘s

#Diversity – Article from ITV

Portrait Positive aims to change perception of beauty in collaboration with photographer Rankin

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#SustainabeDevelopment – Articel from Vogue UK by Ellie Pithers

5 Indispensible Tips For Fashion Brands Seeking To Make Sustainable Changes

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#SustainableDevelopment – Article from Forbes by Katie Baron

Retail Futures: 9 Trends, Strategies And Innovation Opportunities To Set 2020 Alight

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#CircularEconomy – Article from Fashion United UK by Simone Preuss

WRAP presents ECAP findings on circular fashion and textiles

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#CircularEconomy – Article from Ecotextile News by John Mowbray

Textiles should be made from cellulose-based waste

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#Investment – Articel from Forbes by Isabel Togoh

Rental And Resale Are Hot. But Sustainable Fashion Needs A $30 Billion Investment Behind The Scenes

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#Investment – Articel from World Economic Forum Davos by  & 

6 ways to drive funding to transform the fashion industry

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#Awareness – Articel from World Economic Forum Davos by 

Forget retail therapy – this is the age of the conscious consumer

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#Innovations – Articel from inhabitat by 

PANGAIA presents FLWRDWN, a down alternative made from biodegradable wildflowers

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#Cotton – Article from panapress

Burkina Faso inaugurated its first organic cotton ginning plant

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#FastFashion – “How Toxic Are My Clothes? – (A Documentary by Wilson Oryema)”

Found by research on YouTube via Wilson Oryema

#FastFashion – Article from The Wall Street Journal by Dana Thomas

The High Price of Fast Fashion

Gwand Sustainable Fashion Festival Paris mode durable

#VOCKSDiary – EFoundation event in Zurich

Gwand Festival EFoundation Sustainability Tiffany Persons Tara Smith Eleonora Quizmolli
Tara Smith, Tiffany Persons, Eleonora Quizmolli

An evening dedicated to sustainability and women

This Saturday I was allowed to take part on the launch event of the EFoundation. Thank you to my good friend Eleonora Quizmolli for the invitation, she is responsible for the show production for Fashion4Development in New York.

The first event of the EFoundation in Zurich with top-class guests from film, fashion, art and economy. The EFoundation was founded by business women. A foundation dedicated entirely to sustainability

At the event in the Hotel Baur au Lac in Zurich I was very impressed by the keynote speakers.

Tiffany Persons of Tiffany Company Castings and founder of Shine on Sierra Leone. Searching for her roots, she have come to Sierra Leone in West Africa. A country marked by civil wars, whose natural resources have been plundered for generations. It turned out that Tiffany’s roots lie exactly in this country.

Edith Aldewereld co-founder of Women in Sustainable Finance and Mariama Camara founder of Mariama Camara Fashion Production.

Also Patrica Arquette, the Hollywood actress who touched me with her words. And not to forget Tara Smith, award winning international hairstylist and power woman!

The talented American singer Elijah Jamal provided musical entertainment for this evening and touched my soul with his music!

They have all impressed me with their speeches and their story. It was a great evening for me, I met people who had the same goal as me. Making the world more sustainable together. Thank you Eleonora, Tiffany, Tara, Patricia, Mariama and all the others!

Fotos from the EFoundation event at Baur au Lac in Zurich

Tara Smith is hosting the auction

Patricia Arquette speech

Eleonora Quizmolli Speech

We must never stop until this industry becomes one that we can be proud of – Marina Spadafora

Interview Marina Spadafora sustainable fashion industry
The Fashion Revolution coordinator for Italy and GWAND Sustainable Fashion Festival advisory board member once again impressed me with her speech during the Sustainable Fashion Milano 2019 exhibition at the Swiss Embassy. Short, crisp and to the point, unlike others.

Suzanna Vock: Marina Spadafora, you are a designer and sustainability has not become important to you overnight. Where does this conviction come from?

Marina Spadafora: The roots of my sustainable mindset come from my childhood spent in the beautiful northern Italian region of South Tyrol, where I grew up as an avid skier and found myself always in close contact with nature. As a child, when adults would ask me what I wanted to do when I grow up, I always answered that I wanted to work helping children in Africa. It came spontaneous and I am not sure where I got the idea from.
When I was 11 until 14 I had a wonderful professor who introduced us to Martin Luther King and Gandhi and the whole philosophy of non-violent protest. This happened in the Sixties and it made a deep impression on me. It modelled who I am today.

I have done a lot of work with the United Nations especially in Africa and have helped Franca Sozzani, Director of Italian Vogue

The call to preserve nature and to bring social justice into the equation has been with me ever since.

When I had my own brand, I did runway shows that were dedicated to children’s charities and raised money for them.
I have been the creative director of the collection “Auteurs du Monde” by Altromercato for ten years, one of the largest fair trade organisations in Europe. During this time I was able to visit our fair trade producers in many different countries in the world and I came to know and appreciate the quality of life that fair trade grants to those who apply its terms and regulations.

I have done a lot of work with the United Nations especially in Africa and have helped Franca Sozzani, Director of Italian Vogue, to implement the UN programme Fashion 4 Development in many countries.

Since 2014 I am country coordinator on Fashion Revolution Italy and have been promoting sustainability in many different venues, where I am called to intervene as a speaker.

Interview Marina Spadafora sustainable fashion industry

SV: According to a study by the Ellen McArthur Foundation, the clothing industry accounts for 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions worldwide. We recently did an interview with Laura Krarup Frandsen who said: “A newly published report recently revealed that the sustainability progress in the fashion industry has slowed by a third in the past year. The government rejected to take action on the issue with bans and legislations, and instead encouraged the industry to voluntarily solve the problem.”

What do you think is the reason for this and can we continue to rely on voluntarism?

We cannot rely on companies to self-regulate themselves. It is ludicruous to think they would

MS: I believe that we are reaching critical mass regarding ethical fashion. Media in general is very interested in the subject and we have never had so many enquiries like this year about the subject. I was called to curate a great exhibit at the Ferragamo museum called “Sustainable Thinking” that will be open for one year in Florence. These are signals that we are moving in the right direction regarding sustainability in fashion.

The fact is that this approach will truly work when there is a lot of pressure from the consumers thus creating a strong grass root movement. It has to be backed by serious laws from governments.

We cannot rely on companies to self-regulate themselves. It is ludicruous to think they would. When profit and greed have been the only drivers for all businesses how can we think that the same people will develop an ethical mindset from one day to the next?

SV: Laura K. Frandsen also said in the interview: “Nobody wants to speak for the bad sides of the fashion industry”. Why do you think it is so difficult for the big players in the industry to position themselves sustainably (transparently)?

MS: Big companies are scared to take even small steps in the right direction because they think that if they do, the customers will ask, ‘Why aren’t they doing it for the whole production and for every aspect of the company?‘

We at Fashion Revolution believe that even small steps in the right direction are the right thing to do.

We know that is not an easy task to transform a big company into a totally transparent and sustainable operation in a short time, but you need to start somewhere. It is easier for small startups to set up the whole business model as a sustainable one from the very beginning.

Interview Marina Spadafora sustainable fashion industrySV: At the Haute Couture shows in Paris, I talked to many designers about sustainability in their collections. According to them, it is often the lacking materials that holds them back to realise sustainable designs.

MS: I just attended Pitti Filati a few weeks ago in Florence. Here you have all the major yarn manufacturers showing their new collections and there was a huge emphasis on sustainability. The same goes for Italian textile producers.

So, the offer is there, it exists, and there is no hiding behind this excuse of not finding enough sustainable resources.

SV: Are the new alternatives (PiñatexTENCEL, etc.), which are often advertised as sustainable, really sustainable in practice? Or are the problems with the new innovations simply being shifted under the cloak of sustainability?

Where there is a will there is a way

MS: I believe that there are a lot of great alternatives today that are sustainable like Piñatex, Vegen, FrumatOrange FiberEconyl and many more. I believe they are serious about their commitment to sustainability and that they offer great advantages.

Of course there are also all the sustainable natural materials like organic cotton, sustainably produced viscose and TENCEL, cruelty free silk and wool and so on.

SV: Does a designer nowadays have to make sacrifices in design because of the materials? Or could that be seen as the main challenge for a designer today?

MS: It is a creative challenge and designers should be happy to explore it.

I saw a wonderful collection by a young Peruvian designer called Mozh Mozh, where she used organic cotton canvass and covered it in plant based latex called Shiringa and made from the rubber that comes in the form of resin from trees. I also chose an outfit from Argentinian designer Nous Etudions made in Combucha, a material made from fermented green tea.

Where there is a will there is a way!

SV: What is for you as a designer the most sustainable material in the textile sector that is currently on the market?

MS: Recycling and up-cycling for me are two very interesting ways to go about sustainability. In nature I believe that hemp is the most sustainable natural material we can find.

Interview Marina Spadafora sustainable fashion industrySV: Which non-sustainable material should no longer be worn and why?

MS: Polyester comes from fossil fuels and when we wash it sheds a lot of microplastics that cannot be caught by the washing machine filters and ends up in rivers and in the sea and ultimately in the food chain.

Even PET that is recycled from plastic bottles should be washed in special bags that retain the microplastic particles.

SV: You also act as the country coordinator of Fashion Revolution in Italy. The organisation asks the question “Who made my clothes?”. This question refers also to the salaries paid in the fashion industry. With the current system of outsourcing and profit optimisation, can fair wages ever be paid in your opinion?

MS: I believe we are moving in the right direction and there are many great organisations like Fair Wear and Clean Clothes Campaign that, together with Fashion Revolution, are asking governments to raise the minimum wage and get closer to the living wage. In Cambodia and Bangladesh there were some improvements.

We must never stop until this industry becomes one that we can be proud of!

Here you can watch a speech from Marina Spadafora about the consumers power for TEDx. AttentionYouTube stores data about the website visitor when the video is played.

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